The Shark Race-R Pro GP is a full-face race helmet, and its visor (shield) is held at each side by a rotating lock on a rotation axis rather than by a simple clip. Shark Race-R Pro GP visor removal takes no tools: set the visor to its intermediate position, turn each lock a quarter turn and lift the visor away. This guide follows the steps in Shark’s own owner’s manual, explains what the lock cam rolls do, and shows how to refit and test a new visor safely.
Aftermarket visors for Shark helmets
The short answer: lower the visor to its intermediate position, partway open, then turn the visor lock on each side a quarter turn towards the front of the helmet so the cam rolls come out of their grooves. Pull the visor off its rotation axis. To refit, check the cam rolls are in their housings, push the visor onto the axis until it clips, turn each lock back a quarter turn and close the locks before you test it.
Race-R Pro, Race-R Pro GP or GP 06: check the name on your helmet
Shark has sold several helmets under the Race-R Pro name, and it publishes a separate owner’s manual for the Race-R Pro, the Race-R Pro GP and the newer Race-R Pro GP 06. This guide is about the Race-R Pro GP, and it makes no claim that any of those helmets share a visor. The model name is printed inside the helmet, on a label under the lining or on the chin strap.
A visor is shaped for one shell opening and one pair of side mechanisms, so the exact model matters more than the family name. Our catalogue keeps a separate range for each of the three, for exactly that reason.
- Read the label. Match the full model name, including GP or GP 06, not just the words Race-R.
- Look at the old visor. Compare its outline, the shape at each side mechanism and the tear-off supports with the listing photo.
- Read the listing’s model list. Order only a visor whose listing names your helmet. A listing that names several Shark models is not proof that those helmets share a visor.
The visors we list for this helmet sit in our Shark Race-R Pro GP visor range. If you are not sure which helmet you have, the visor finder narrows it down by brand and model.
How the Race-R Pro GP visor is held: locks, cam rolls and an axis
Shark’s manual labels three parts on each side of the helmet: “1 – Visor lock”, “2 – Visor rotation axis” and “3 – Visor lock cam roll”. The rotation axis is what the visor pivots on as you open and close it. The visor lock is the part you turn by hand, and the cam rolls are what hold the visor in place on the axis.
Turning a lock moves its cam rolls in or out of grooves in the visor. That is the whole idea of the system: with the cam rolls in their grooves the visor stays on the axis, and with them released it pulls straight off. No screws are involved, which is why the job needs no tools.
Shark describes the original visor as “an optical quality visor (optical class 1)”, with an anti-scratch treatment on the outside and an anti-fog treatment on the inside. It adds: “It is therefore recommended to regularly maintain your visor.” Both treatments are easy to damage with the wrong cleaner, which matters once the visor is off and in your hands.
What you need before you start
You need no tools to take the visor off or put it back, so the preparation is mostly about a clean, steady place to work.
- A towel, or the helmet bag, so the shell sits still and stays unmarked
- Two microfibre cloths, one dry and one lightly dampened
- Cool water with a little mild soap
- The new visor, still in its protective film
- Good light, so you can see the lock and cam rolls on both sides
The only tool the manual mentions is a 1.5mm six-sided key, and that is for adjusting how stiffly the visor moves, not for removing it. Rest the helmet on its towel with the chin bar towards you, and take off any ring or watch that could scratch the shell or the new visor.
Shark Race-R Pro GP visor removal, step by step
The steps below follow the “Visor removal” page of Shark’s Race-R Pro GP owner’s manual. Our own listings give a shorter, generic method that starts from fully open. For this helmet, follow the manual, which starts from the intermediate position.
- Set the visor halfway. Shark’s first instruction is: “Position the visor in intermediate position.” Raise the visor partway, so it is neither shut against the seal nor fully up.
- Turn the first lock. Rotate the visor lock on one side a quarter turn towards the front of the helmet. The manual says the lock cam rolls are then released from their grooves.
- Turn the second lock. Do the same on the other side, so both sides are released before you pull on anything.
- Lift the visor off. In the manual’s words: “Pull out the visor from the rotation axis.” Ease it away evenly on both sides and lay it inside face up on a clean cloth.
If the visor will not come away, check that both locks have really turned a full quarter turn and that the visor is still at its intermediate position. Never lever it off with a screwdriver, a key or a coin, because a broken lock or axis costs more to sort out than any visor.
While the visor is off: the axis, cam rolls and seal
This is the one moment you can reach every part that decides how well the visor moves and seals. Road grit on the axis makes the visor stiff, and dirt on the rubber seal stops it closing tight against the shell.
- Wipe the rotation axis and the lock on each side with the damp cloth, working gently into the recesses.
- Look at the cam rolls and check that they sit in their housings, because the manual makes that the first step of refitting.
- Wipe the rubber seal right round the opening. Our guide to cleaning a motorcycle visor seal goes through that part in more detail.
- Dry everything with the second cloth and let it air for a few minutes.
Keep to water and mild soap. Shark warns against “any solvent, petrol, abrasive paste or similar products” on the visor, and its warranty terms exclude damage from “methylated spirits on the visor treatments”.
Fitting a replacement visor
Refitting is the removal in reverse, with one extra check at the start. Hold the new visor by its edges and leave the protective film on until it is in place.
- Check the locks first. The manual says to “Check that the lock cam rolls are well in their housings and that the longest part of the visor locks are toward the front of the visor.”
- Put the visor on the axis. Shark’s instruction is: “Insert the visor in its rotation axis and push it backward until clipping.” Do it on both sides, keeping the visor square to the shell.
- Set it halfway again. Move the visor to its intermediate position, the same place you started from.
- Turn each lock back. Press on the lock so it grips the visor, then turn it backward a quarter turn until it sits against the rotation axis in its starting position. Repeat on the other side.
- Close the locks. The manual’s last step is to “Replace the visor locker in closed position to lock the visor.” Then peel the film from both faces.
Shark ends this page with a warning in capitals: “WARNING! Do not force.” It adds: “Check the movement of the visor before using of the helmet.” If a lock will not turn back easily, take the visor off and check the cam rolls rather than forcing it.
Testing the visor before you ride
Do these checks at home, not at the side of the road. A visor that is on one side and not the other often looks right when raised and then closes at a slant.
- Both sides are locked. Each visor lock should be back in its closed position, matching the other side.
- It travels smoothly. Raise and lower the visor several times. It should move evenly on both sides with no tight spot.
- It seals all round. Closed, it should meet the rubber seal along the whole edge with no visible gap.
- The view is clear. Check that the film is off both faces and that nothing distorts your view straight ahead or to the sides.
If the visor will not stay where you put it or will not close against the seal, do not ride on it. Refit it once more, and if the fault remains, have the helmet checked.
Friction and seal adjustment: what Shark says to leave alone
The manual separates two adjustments that riders often confuse. The first is friction, meaning how stiffly the visor moves: “The 1.5mm six sides key enables the adjustment of the friction force of your visor.” If a new visor feels too loose or too stiff once it is fitted, that is the setting involved.
The second is the seal, and here Shark is cautious. The manual says the helmet “has been carefully adjusted in factory” and that “You should better not modify this adjustment”. It mentions that the patented rotation system does allow the visor to be adjusted, “But we recommend you to contact your retailer to make this operation.”
So a visor swap is not the moment to experiment with the seal. If a correctly fitted visor still whistles or lets in air, our guide to motorcycle visor wind noise covers the usual causes.
Tear-offs on the Race-R Pro GP
The Race-R Pro GP visor has supports for tear-offs, the thin peel-away films racers use to clear dirt and bugs in one pull. Shark is clear about where they belong: “the tear off are intend to be used only on a closed track”. They are not a road accessory on this helmet.
The manual says the supports are mounted on eccentrics, so you swing them closer, place the tear-off on a clean visor and then tension it by rotating the supports. It also warns: “The bad positioning of the tear off can affect your vision and cause risk of accidents.” Our guide to motorcycle visor tear-offs explains how they work in more depth.
If you fit a new visor, check whether its listing photo shows the tear-off supports before you plan to use tear-offs on it. Treat a replacement visor as the visor alone unless its listing says otherwise.
Choosing a replacement visor for the Shark Race-R Pro GP
The two parts below name only the Race-R Pro GP in their titles and sit only in its range and the Shark brand range. Other visors in the range also name other Shark models, so read each listing’s model list before you order.
| Part | What it is for | Read more |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement visor for the Shark Race-R Pro GP | Replacing a scratched, hazed or scuffed visor, with clear, smoke and mirrored options | clear replacement visors explained |
| Photochromic visor for the Shark Race-R Pro GP | A visor that darkens in bright sun and turns near-clear again as the light drops | how photochromic visors work |
Shark’s manual is direct about which visor it expects on this helmet. It says: “Only the visors, SHARK VZ100 approved under No. E11 050154 / SHARK VZ100 MXV approved under No. E11 050401 must be used with this helmet.” Our visors are aftermarket parts, not Shark’s own, so read the marking on any visor you fit before you ride on the road with it.
Once a visor is badly marked, its optical quality is gone, and rule 84 of the Highway Code rules for motorcyclists explains why that matters: “Scratched or poorly fitting eye protectors can limit your view when riding, particularly in bright sunshine and the hours of darkness.” Light marks can sometimes be polished out, and our guide to removing scratches from a motorcycle visor explains where the line sits. For the wider choice of finishes, see our photochromic visor range.
Anti-fog on the Race-R Pro GP: the visor, the vent and the masks
Shark tackles fogging on this helmet in three ways. The visor has its own anti-fog treatment on the inside. The front vent also has a demisting job, and Shark says it “ensures the air flow on the internal surface of the visor to limit the risk of mist”, a function that works whenever the flap is open.
The third is a breath mask, and the manual describes two. A small summer mask fixes on with a bayonet system over three support studs. A large winter and racing mask replaces it, and fitting that one means taking the cheek pads out and putting them back.
Shark is firm about the cheek pads: “NEVER use your helmet with any part of the interior padding removed.” If you swap masks while the visor is off, refit both cheek pads before you test the new visor.
Anti-fog surfaces work by changing how moisture behaves on them. A 2022 materials study in Advanced Science, available on PubMed Central, explains that on a hydrophilic anti-fog coating “condensed water spreads into a pseudo‐film shape immediately to avoid fogging”, instead of forming droplets that scatter light. It is a laboratory paper, not a test of any visor, and none of the parts in our Race-R Pro GP range is an anti-fog insert. Our guide on how to stop a helmet visor fogging and our page on anti-fog visor inserts cover the wider options.
Tinted visors and the law in Great Britain
The replacement visor listed for the Race-R Pro GP comes in smoke, mirrored and iridium finishes as well as clear, so the legal position is worth knowing before you choose. In Great Britain the test is the marking on the individual visor, not its colour or the name of its tint.
The Motor Cycles (Eye Protectors) Regulations 1999 prescribe BS 4110 and require eye protection to carry an approved certification mark of an approved body. A visor is only road legal in GB if it carries that marking.
Iridium, mirrored and dark smoke visors transmit too little light to be legal for road use in Great Britain, day or night. Keep a visor like that for the track, and check the marking on any clear or light visor before you ride on it.
Selling eye protection for road use that is not of a prescribed type is an offence in itself under section 18 of the Road Traffic Act 1988. That is why ClearLineMoto never describes any visor as approved or certified: we do not check the marking on individual items. For more detail, read our guide to tinted visor law in Great Britain, and riders in the US can start with our guide to visor tint rules in the US.
Troubleshooting a Race-R Pro GP visor swap
Why won’t the Race-R Pro GP visor come off?
Most often the visor is not at its intermediate position, or one lock has not turned a full quarter turn towards the front. Set the visor halfway, turn both locks fully, then pull the visor straight off its rotation axis. If it still sticks, look for grit around the lock before trying again.
Why won’t the visor locks turn back after fitting?
The usual cause is a cam roll that is out of its housing, or a lock fitted with its longest part facing the wrong way. Remove the visor, check that the cam rolls sit in their housings and that the longest part of each lock faces the front, then refit it. Shark’s warning applies here: do not force it.
Why does the new visor feel loose or stiff?
Friction varies a little between visors, and the manual gives a way to set it with a 1.5mm six-sided key. Check first that both sides are clipped onto the axis and both locks are closed. If it is still wrong, adjust the friction gently, and leave the seal adjustment to a retailer as Shark recommends.
Looking after the new visor
Shark’s cleaning advice for this visor is simple: “We advise to use a soft rag with cool water and mild soap.” Let the visor dry in the air rather than near a heater, and keep fuel, solvents and window cleaners away from it.
Rule 83 of the Highway Code asks riders to check before every ride: “Before each journey check that your helmet visor is clean and in good condition.” Shark puts it more bluntly in the same manual: “If your visor after a period of use, does not guarantee you an excellent visibility, it is absolutely necessary to change it.” Our complete guide to cleaning a motorcycle helmet visor goes further on technique.
If you own more than one Shark helmet, our overview of visors that fit Shark helmets shows how the range is grouped. You can also browse our visors for Shark helmets model by model.
This guide was written by the ClearLineMoto team. ClearLineMoto is not affiliated with Shark, and every part we list is described by the helmet models it fits.
Visors and inserts mentioned in this guide
- Shark Race-R Pro GP Replacement Visor — Iridium, Smoke, Clear Tints
- See the photochromic visor for the Race-R Pro GP
- All visors listed for the Shark Race-R Pro GP
Frequently asked questions
Do you need tools to remove a Shark Race-R Pro GP visor?
No. Both visor locks are turned by hand, and the visor pulls off its rotation axis once they are released. The only tool in the manual is a 1.5mm six-sided key, and that adjusts the friction, not the fitting.
Why does the visor have to be halfway open to remove it?
Shark’s removal steps start from the intermediate position, and the refitting steps return to it before the locks are turned back. Follow that order, because it is the position the manual uses for releasing and seating the cam rolls.
Can I use tear-offs on the Race-R Pro GP on the road?
Shark says its tear-offs are intended for use only on a closed track. The visor has supports for them, but the manual also warns that a badly positioned tear-off can affect your vision. On the road, ride with a clean visor and no tear-off.
Will a visor listed for another Shark helmet fit the Race-R Pro GP?
Rely only on a listing that names the Race-R Pro GP. A visor is cut for one shell opening and one pair of side mechanisms, and a listing that names several models does not prove they share a visor. Compare your old visor with the listing photo before you order.